Introducing textiles

I am introducing the next category in my blog which is 'Textiles'. According to wikipedia 'Textiles is a flexible woven material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn'. Now in my blog i am not going to go deep into the technical details about the manufacturing process of fibres, yarn or fabrics. This category 'Textiles' is all about textile designing and about various fabrics, its types, applications, properties etc. Here is a brief note about textiles and its types. 

The raw material for the textiles is fibres. Fibre is the smallest unit of fabric. Fibre can be broadly classified into two types Natural and Synthetic fibres. Fibres gotten from the natural resources are natural fibres and those that are manufactured by man artificially are called synthetic fibres. 

Natural fibres can again be from

• Plant origin examples are cotton, jute, flax, coir etc
• Animal origin examples are wool, silk etc
• Mineral origin examples asbestos, glass fibres etc

Synthetic fibres are produced by man artificially and examples are polyester, nylon, lycra, aramid, acrylic etc. 

These fibres are spun into yarns and yarns are made into fabrics. Depending on the methods used to make the yarns or fibres into fabrics, the fabrics can be classified as 

• Wovens: The sets of yarns are interlaced at right angles with each other by hand or by machine.  The lengthwise yarns are called warps and the width wise yarns are called wefts. Examples brocades, banarasi, georgette, chiffon, satin, handloom fabrics etc. 
• Knits: The yarns are interlooped with each other. The knitted fabrics have more elasticity. Examples sweaters, socks, lingeries etc. 
• Nonwovens : The fibres or yarns are bonded together by using chemicals or mechanical methods, by using heat or solvent. Example felt. Braiding is also one of the method.  

Once the fabric is formed it is called as grey fabric when a suitable finish has to be given to it to make it a finished fabric. The fabric is then dyed to the required color. Dyeing can be done at fibre stage, yarn stage or the fabric stage depending on the requirements. Patterns or designs on the fabric can also be done using dyeing process. Tie and dye, batik are examples.  If printing is required it is done using different methods like block printing, stencil printing, screen printing ,roller printing etc. After the suitable finish is given the fabric is now ready to be made into finished products like garments, home furnishings, accessories etc. 

Zardosi and Zari work

Zardosi and Zari work are popular embroidery works used in almost all kinds of clothing especially in Indian and Indo Western wear, home furnishings and accessories. This embroidery is the earliest and has ancient origin. During mughal times kings wore clothes embroidered with zari and zardosi work. This embroidery work has a very rich look and is expensive. Zardosi and Zari are shiny circular metallic threads which look like wires and are available in gold, silver and in other colors too. They are available in various widths. 

The images below will clearly shows what is zari and zardosi work

Zari embroidered motif done using tiny chain stitches

The fabric is first stretched and fixed uniformly on a big wooden frame. The design or the motif is traced on it and then embroidery is done. This embroidery uses a hook to do the stitch.The stitches used are chain stitch, satin stitch, couching, running and stem stitch. The embroidery is usually combined with other types of embroidery work like sequins work, bead work, resham work, kora work, gotta work, stone work, applique work etc.

Zardosi embroidery is done along with stone work

Zari work has a flat look whereas zardosi has a thick three dimensional look. Zardosi work is more heavier compared to zari work and is more expensive too. Though lots of other colors are used gold and silver are the most popular colors. Zari embroidery can be done on any fabric ranging from light weight to heavy weight. Heavy zardosi can be done on medium to heavy weight fabrics. Light weight fabrics would not be able to take the weight of zardosi work if the work is done heavily. 

zardosi work is done combined with sequins and bead work. 

As you can see in the above images where zardosi work is done, the motif or the design is outlined with zari embroidery where chain stitch is used and thus giving a well defined outline.

Applications

This embroidery is widely used in kurtis, salwars, sarees, lehengas, sherwanis, anarkalis, dupattas, lehenga sarees, wall hangings, cushion cases, pillow cases, mojris etc.